After spending the weekend in northern Bavaria, we traveled to Dresden, the capital of the state of Saxony. We had visited Dresden in early 1990s and although renovation work on many historic buildings had already begun, much of the city still looked drab and neglected from four decades of neglect under communist rule. Not so now. While construction work is still ongoing in places, an immense amount of progress has been made.
![120507_Dresden_014 120507_Dresden_014](//lh5.ggpht.com/-g5zuqQsa4rQ/T66J8REJ_CI/AAAAAAAASJs/jDgf9OLMqMY/120507_Dresden_014_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800) |
View of the Frauenkirche |
The most obvious hallmark of what has been achieved is the Frauenkirche, the large Lutheran church in the heart of Dresden which was destroyed during the firebombing by the Allies during World War II. Still a ruin during my 1993 visit, the Frauenkirche was painstakingly reconstructed over 13 years and reconsecrated in 2005. The cost of reconstruction was a jaw-dropping €180 million ($250 million at today’s exchange rate).
![120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano2 120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano2](//lh6.ggpht.com/-3PDXUt7LaJc/T66J-dbax3I/AAAAAAAASJ8/yVhBLjCF7Bs/120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano2_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Frauenkirche |
The buildings around the Frauenkirche are magnificent, recalling the splendor of the time before the world turned dark in the late 1930s.
![120507_dresden_pano 120507_dresden_pano](//lh5.ggpht.com/-RRCn5YDtFhU/T66KAmfYsnI/AAAAAAAASKM/IdupEq1wWLI/120507_dresden_pano_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Academy of Fine Arts |
![120507_Dresden_035 120507_Dresden_035](//lh3.ggpht.com/-wllVmTVf2k4/T66KDKYUDFI/AAAAAAAASKc/0TGsEfvoBZU/120507_Dresden_035_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Pedicabs in front of the Frauenkirche |
I’m not a fan of overly ornate Baroque architecture, but I was entranced by the myriad intricate details evident everywhere.
![120507_Dresden_056 120507_Dresden_056](//lh6.ggpht.com/-2gKQZYnz8tM/T66KF6qYl2I/AAAAAAAASKs/KGj9rIMYt7c/120507_Dresden_056_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Altar |
![120507_Dresden_067 120507_Dresden_067](//lh6.ggpht.com/-JQFprlu5z3o/T66KI0TYKKI/AAAAAAAASK8/WigPm8lvyss/120507_Dresden_067_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Cupola |
After paying what I thought was a hefty fee of €8 (about $10.50), my brother and I climbed to the top of the cupola…
…in hopes of catching a panoramic view of the city. What I saw surpassed my wildest expectation. It was like flying over downtown Dresden at a low altitude. This view of the Elbe River was my favorite.
![120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano1 120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano1](//lh6.ggpht.com/-EBgdpHvNXHw/T66KMkc9QUI/AAAAAAAASLc/Fttuh-HR53E/120507_dresden_frauenkirche_pano1_th.jpg?imgmax=800) |
View of the Elbe River |
![120507_Dresden_131 120507_Dresden_131](//lh3.ggpht.com/-lZzn-PUImzA/T66KPVgrYnI/AAAAAAAASLs/CLtALqrO1bc/120507_Dresden_131_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Academy of Fine Arts |
![120507_Dresden_129 120507_Dresden_129](//lh3.ggpht.com/-zRyDvrDN_SI/T66KTVmv2BI/AAAAAAAASL8/572rB576_bU/120507_Dresden_129_thumb7.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Academy of Fine Arts |
![120507_Dresden_117 120507_Dresden_117](//lh6.ggpht.com/-Y9IHrjx_6ic/T66KXKbnziI/AAAAAAAASMM/6tGj_yrfuIw/120507_Dresden_117_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
A green oasis on top of the roof |
![120507_Dresden_113 120507_Dresden_113](//lh5.ggpht.com/-Vz0AaEmKe8Q/T66KaA1yWiI/AAAAAAAASMc/m28B9e80_jg/120507_Dresden_113_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
View towards Dresden Castle |
![120507_Dresden_115 120507_Dresden_115](//lh5.ggpht.com/-ppsE1L_Vxvs/T66KeBeKaRI/AAAAAAAASMs/gAeD9vwTmLU/120507_Dresden_115_thumb7.jpg?imgmax=800) |
I couldn’t get enough of the view |
![120507_Dresden_127 120507_Dresden_127](//lh3.ggpht.com/-F7TCpvrX5pM/T66KhQWX8MI/AAAAAAAASM8/sMAUlx72JiA/120507_Dresden_127_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
A less charming part of the panorama: a residential highrise built during communist rule |
We then continued on past Dresden Castle and the Semperoper to the Zwinger, a Rococo palace built by Augustus the Strong in the early 1700s to house exhibition galleries.
![120507_dresden_theaterplatz_pano 120507_dresden_theaterplatz_pano](//lh3.ggpht.com/-6SETagvNq1M/T66KkunqM5I/AAAAAAAASNM/hLaK7ksO2eY/120507_dresden_theaterplatz_pano_thu.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Theaterplatz with Semperoper (left) and Dresden Castle (right) |
![120507_Dresden_159 120507_Dresden_159](//lh4.ggpht.com/-nLRSyph54es/T66Ko9mebTI/AAAAAAAASNc/_bM8qGl0zvE/120507_Dresden_159_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Trees in front of the Zwinger. I saw many of these but was never able to figure out what they were. A group of Japanese tourists got very excited at the sight of these trees. They called out a Japanese name but I wasn’t even to memorize it. |
![120507_Dresden_165 120507_Dresden_165](//lh6.ggpht.com/-NIcDP7opMOE/T66KsPhj-nI/AAAAAAAASNs/nlZy6wapEI8/120507_Dresden_165_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
I hate pansies but I had to make my peace with them because they were everywhere |
![120507_Dresden_201 120507_Dresden_201](//lh5.ggpht.com/-wAomHwagFEk/T66Kx3BHW_I/AAAAAAAASOM/PNkl4Am8e2E/120507_Dresden_201_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Architectural details from the Zwinger |
![120507_Dresden_Zwinger_pano 120507_Dresden_Zwinger_pano](//lh3.ggpht.com/-Dl0W_5XQrNg/T66K04dZ-gI/AAAAAAAASOc/MopAI922EAQ/120507_Dresden_Zwinger_pano_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Zwinger panorama |
Leaving the historic buildings behind, we walked through the pedestrian shopping district. The architecture there is much more utilitarian and drab. Many buildings were constructed during communist rule when esthetics was not a priority. However, the city is trying to beautify the shopping district with public art. I particularly liked these two examples:
And since this is a blog about plants and gardening, here are two cold-hardy succulents I spotted:
![120507_Dresden_001 120507_Dresden_001](//lh6.ggpht.com/-QubA5FBaI7I/T66LAxBobmI/AAAAAAAASPc/JKfDo6Mtt8k/120507_Dresden_001_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800) |
Sedum species |
![120507_Dresden_292 120507_Dresden_292](//lh4.ggpht.com/-qdk7F8xO7Ms/T66LD88GPQI/AAAAAAAASPs/7LI_tQg0sjM/120507_Dresden_292_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800) |
House leek (Sempervivum sp.) |
Tomorrow, in my final post from my trip to Germany, I’ll take to the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. I hadn’t even heard of this area until recently but it turned out to be one of the most beautiful parts of Germany I have ever seen.
Related posts:
Letter from Germany, part 1
Letter from Germany, part 2
Letter from Germany, part 3
Letter from Germany, part 4
As one who enjoys the contrasts I appreciate seeing the stark lines of the "communist" buildings along with the more ornate architectural styles. While the residential high-rise appears a little opressive at least they look to have balconies!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful city, and like danger garden I like the mix of the different architectural styles.
ReplyDeleteI think the entrance fee to get that view was worth it. :-)